The Hedonist

COYA Angel Court – Review

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COYA Angel Court          City

31-33  Throgmorton Street
London
EC2N 2AT

Tel: +44 (0) 203 9070 000

Email: info.ac@coyarestaurant.com

I reviewed the original COYA at the Hyde Park end of Piccadilly a couple of years ago not long after it opened. I loved its sophisticated take on Peruvian cuisine so I was intrigued to be invited to review the newly launched day-to-night Pisco Lounge and restaurant at COYA Angel Court in Bank.IMG_2213The restaurant is just a stone’s throw from Bank station and our first stop on arrival was the COYA’S Pisco Lounge. As you might expect it features a comprehensive Pisco library, over 40 tequilas and an extensive rum list. Sadly they wouldn’t let me move in.IMG_2212We went for that South American classic, The Pisco Sour (£12) made with Pisco Quebranta, fresh lime juice, sugar syrup and egg white. It’s a frothy citric drink with a hint of bite and one of my favourite summer cocktails. If I’m feeling brave next time I’ll hit the Chilli Margarita and throw some shapes to the sound of the DJ…IMG_2215In the restaurant you are surrounded by vibrant Incan colours and bespoke Latin American furniture which give what is quite a large space a sense of sense of character and intimacy. There is a private dining room and plenty of action coming from the Ceviche counter and the open charcoal grill.IMG_2223Whilst we were clocking the menu our waiter turned up bearing a pestle and mortar, 1 1/2 avocados, some red onion and chilli and a handful of sea salt. Be still my beating heart…I could hardly contain my excitement as he created the perfect Guacamole tableside. It was so fresh with the perfect balance of heat offsetting the vegetal smoothness of the avocado. With corn tortillas and prawn crackers on the side we were off to a great start.IMG_2229Ordering from the Ceviche menu we ordered the Langosta (£19). A succulent half lobster portion perched atop a delicate pool of gazpacho with a bit of kick provided by the tasty aji limo chilli.  Our French sommelier suggested matching the dish with a light and creamy Urakasumi Honjozo Sake which was a brilliant and unexpected choice.IMG_2231Soft shell crab Tacos- Cangrejo de concha blanda (£12) – were impeccable with the delicate flavour of the crab enhanced and not overwhelmed by the tang of yuzu, a slick of aioli  and the slight addition of chilli heat.IMG_2230From the Para Picar menu (small sharing plates) Fiona chose the Cerdo Bao (£6.50). Slow-cooked deliciously flakey pulled pork with chipotle and a ‘criolla’ (creole) salsa served in a spiced mayo Bao-style bun with fresh coriander.  IMG_2235Langostino Tigre (£29) was a huge Josper-grilled (charcoal) Tiger Prawn. Taken out of the shell it was mixed with a chilli salsa creating a wonderfully rich tasting dish accompanied by a crisp, peachy Uruguayan Albariño from Bodegas Garzon.IMG_2233Arroz Nikkei (£36) was a standout dish for me. Chilean sea bass was served with rice, lime, chilli and a corn purée. The fish had a caramel sweetness almost like a black cod and blended with the starchy rice and corn it created a fabulous dish. With it we drank an Argentinian Susana Balbo Signature Rosé, a blend of Malbec and Pinot Noir, which had a wonderful strawberry aroma whilst maintaining a sense of minerality.IMG_2234Sides included Esparragos Peruanos (£7) – grilled Peruvian asparagus served with a tomato dressing, and Choy sum Chifa (£6) – stir-fried Choy sum, soya with sesame seeds both showing a real attention to detail and flavour.IMG_2236Mousse de Coco (£9) was a delicious dessert of a fluffy coconut mousse, Jivara chocolate and pineapple sorbet. A wonderful Urakasumi Umeshu plum sake had an intense almond nose but was not as sweet as a plum wine. IMG_2239Caramelo con Chocolate y Sorbete de Frambuesa (£9) was a dark and mysterious salted caramel ganache given a bit of vava voom by a  pisco and raspberry sorbet. We sank a lovely glass of plummy Luccardi Malammado , a fortified port-like Malbec from Argentina to go with it.IMG_2244A glass of Ruinart rosé champagne was the perfect end to a meal that combined traditional Peruvian cooking with Japanese, Chinese and Spanish cuisines. There was a real vibrancy and sense of consistency to the food at COYA Angel Court. It really feels that is the Nikkei/Peruvian food axis where the action is at the moment in gastronomy and if you are looking for something deliciously different then you should try out COYA.

Square Meal

Ember Yard – Review

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Ember Yard                                           Soho


60 Berwick Street, London W1F 8SU
020 7439 8057/http://emberyard.co.uk
 EMBER YARD 4

As part of a day out in Soho’s Berwick St  Fiona from London Unattached and I were invited to have lunch at the Salt Yard Group’s new restaurant Ember Yard.

EMBER YARD 20 Their restaurants (Salt Yard, Dehesa and Opera Tavern) are all tapas based as is Ember Yard but as its name implies the new joint specialises in grilling, using a charcoal grill burning plum and sweet chestnut and a high temperature Josper grill.
EMBER YARD 6Interiors are comfortable casual in brown wood and leather and as we perused the  menu we sank a cocktail each from their unexpectedly intriguing looking drinks list.
EMBER YARD 17
Fiona had a Geppetto’s Tonica (Gin, Homemade Tonic Water and Grapefruit bitters-£10) which disappeared without a trace.
My Smoked Sazerac (Smoked sherry brandy, Peychaud bitters and anise perfume-£10) was a gentle take on the New Orleans classic with the sherry brandy infusing the drink with a delicious smokey aroma. Perfect for lunch…
But it was the food that we had come for. There are a lot of excellent tapas restaurants in London now-would Ember Yard deliver?
EMBER YARD 2
Grilled Flatbread with Honey, Thyme and Smoked Butter (£3.50) was chewy, smokey, with a hint of sweetness and a great char.
EMBER YARD 19
Padrón Peppers (£4.50) arrived with blistered skin and were hot, salty and full of flavour.
EMBER YARD 18Grilled New Season Sardines with Summer Herb Emulsion and Crispy Sea Purslane (£6.50)-this was a great dish; the sardines’ skin was blackened to a crisp acting as a bitter counterpoint to the firm sweetness of the fish. Ember Yard majors in pairing proteins with emulsions and the slick of herby mayo gave a vegetal edge to the dish.
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 Oak Smoked Basque Beef Burger with Tetilla and Chorizo Ketchup (£6.50) had a deep smokey flavour and was described by Fiona as “very, very good!”
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Piquillo and Smoked Ricotta Arancini with Fennel Aioli (£6) were dry and really crisp on the outside with an aniseed kick from the fennel aioli-really moreish.
EMBER YARD 15 Buttermilk Fried Squid with Capers, Lemon, Sage and Squid Ink Alioli (£6.50) showed that the chef on the deep-fat fryer wasn’t a one trick pony. The squid ink alioli added an umami note the proceedings.
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 Hot Smoked Butternut Squash with Goats’ Curd and Grape Jam (£6.50)-the squash was grilled to within an inch of its life bringing out its inherent sweetness, and combined with the sourness of the curd and grape jam made for a squishy mouthful
of taste pleasure!
EMBER YARD 14
 Burrata with Chargrilled Aubergine, Focaccia, Chilli and Oregano (£8)-I’m a big fan of burrata and freshness is key. This one was fine without being great but nicely paired with the herb and chilli pesto, aubergine and focaccia giving a blend of tastes and textures.
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 Chocolate and Turrón Cake with Cherries and Rosemary Cream (£6.50)-Fiona regretted getting the kitchen to hold the cherries as they would have added sweetness and moisture to the dish.
EMBER YARD 10Chargrilled Italian Peach with Amaretti, Mascarpone, Honey and Thyme (£6) was a welcome return to the grilling station. The peach was dripping with sweetness and had a terrific depth of flavour. This was a delicious and sensual dish.
You can drop into Ember Yard just for some cheese or charcuterie or for something more substantial. I had read some excellent reviews but somehow wasn’t expecting this level of quality. Go and enjoy.
Thanks to Fiona for the loan of some of her photos as my battery had run out!

Ember Yard on Urbanspoon