CLAW Pop-up At The Three Compasses Dalston
99 Dalston Lane, London E8 1NH
020 7923 7452/www.clawfood.com/www.3compasses.com
Founded by Foodpreneur 2015 winner Fabian Clark in January 2015, the seafood based CLAW pop-up is taking up residency at Dalston’s award-winning pub The Three Compasses from now until the end of January 2016 and Fiona and I have been asked along to review. With Britain exporting 80% of its crab to the rest of Europe Fabian is a man on a mission to get us consuming more of the delicious decapods and the CLAW menu offers five burgers (priced between £9.50 and £11) each served in an organic soft brioche bun with tarragon salted fries. Sides include crab & mac (£5), crab and mozzarella arancini (£4) and freshly-made slaw (£3). With a seafood-focused brunch menu available 11am – 4pm every weekend, crabs sourced from Start Bay in Devon, breads baked fresh from Celtic Bakery, cheese sourced from Neal’s Yard Dairy and the best vegetables from Borough Market, the Claw offer seems very attractive.
The burgers range from a Korean kimchi and crab burger to a more sedate prawn and tartare sauce version. Fiona opted for the samphire burger which came with crab, iceberg lettuce fried capers and tartare sauce. She really enjoyed it and didn’t offer me a bite.
I went for the octopus burger featuring fresh barbecued octopus from Newlyn, pickled cucumber, barbecue sauce and coriander. Sadly our accompanying tarragon fries were undercooked and nowhere near the requisite level of crispness but it was the pub’s birthday party that evening and attention to detail may have slipped a little. But the octopus was tender and nicely charred and with a good bun and fillings it made for a a great mouthful.
With our sides of crab & mac, a crabby cheesy crustacea and pasta fest (£5)
and slightly limp freshly-made slaw (£3) we felt well fed without breaking the bank.