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The Hedonist

The Painted Heron – Review

July 23, 2016 by Adrian

The Painted Heron                                              Chelsea

112 Cheyne Walk, Chelsea, SW10 0DJ

 020 7351 5232/www.thepaintedheron.com

IMG_7046In my fantasy world I have the elegance of  Dirk Bogarde, drive an Aston Martin and live in Cheyne Walk. This little stretch of exclusivity overlooks the Thames on the north bank between Battersea and Albert bridges, far enough away from the tube to keep the hoi polloi away and close enough to the action to keep me busy. In real life I don’t live anywhere like it but much to my surprise have at least staked a claim by finding a parking space outside Chef-Patron Yogesh Datta’s restaurant The Painted Heron where I have been invited to review the new a la Carte menu. I have previously reviewed Yogesh’s Indo-Chinese  City outpost Bangalore Express which does a very good line in upmarket street-food but despite driving past The Painted Heron possibly a million times since it first opened its doors in 2002 I have never visited.IMG_7050We started the evening with some crisp, freshly cooked Poppadums-chutneys are home-made and unusually flavoured. Mango comes with a hint of cumin, there is a deliciously tart plum version, and the garlic and mint iteration is cool and refreshing. I’m drinking a fruity and floral Gewurtztraminer Reserve, Cave de Hunawihr, Alsace 2012 (£33) that stands up to the spices without being too sweet.IMG_7059The Seafood Grazing Platter (£25) was an obvious choice for a shared starter-Pollock Fish Tikka was firm-fleshed and not overwhelmed by the spicing, a crab dosa was elegant and light, tandoori prawns were succulent and a beautiful piece of wild pink salmon was beautifully spiced.IMG_7060Black cod came with a flavoured chilli crust, onion jam, onion and lentil dumpling, yoghurt (£24.50). The sweetness of the fish was intensified by the heat of the chilli creating a real depth of flavour, soothed by the yoghurt and jam.IMG_7063Chicken tikka, almond and tomato curry with clotted cream (£14.50) was rich, creamy and tender-a deluxe take on the standard curry house dish, and the accompanying Basmati rice (£3.50) was fragrant and flaky.IMG_7062Broccoli, cauliflower, sugar snap peas poriyal (£6.50) was delicious-fried veg in a luscious coconut sauce with just a hint of burn! Masala potato, sweet potato and broad bean mash (£6) was a spicy starchy heaven and perfect for mopping up the poriyal sauce.IMG_7064Hot Naan bread (£3.50) came straight from the oven, perfectly blistered and puffed up.IMG_7065We were brought out a mixed plate of desserts to try out; mango cheesecake, chocolate molten pudding, salted caramels and nut slice with coconut cream all impressed though we were pretty full by this time!IMG_7048In my fantasy world the cool,understated elegance of The Painted Heron would suit me fine and in the real world I’d like to see Yogesh Datta’s prize-winning restaurant getting a little more attention. The food is innovative both in use of ingredients and techniques but without compromising the intensity of heat and spice that creates its character and in these hot summer months with the newly opened Heron Terrace for Alfresco Dining there really is no excuse for not going.

The Painted Heron Menu, Reviews, Photos, Location and Info - Zomato

4.5 / 5 stars     

Filed Under: Restaurants & Bars Tagged With: Chelsea, Indian, The Painted Heron, Yogesh Datta

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