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The Hedonist

Executive Menu Launch @ Thai Square – Putney Bridge

July 11, 2017 by Adrian Leave a Comment

Thai Square – Putney Bridge

2-4 Lower Richmond Road, Putney SW15 1LB

Back in the dark days of the late 1990s suburban Putney was home to Putney Bridge, a Michelin starred French restaurant catering to West London yuppies like me in a prize-winning new build. Chef Anthony Demetre went on to open Arbutus, the restaurant that kickstarted the Soho dining revival.IMG_1696Fast-forward to 2011 and the same Putney site became a member of the Thai Square group of restaurants. I’ve been invited to the launch of a new Executive Menu created by recently appointed executive chef Parichat Sanguthai (or Oula as she is known to her friends). IMG_1695Oula was formerly executive chef of the Blue Elephant in Fulham and is known for her skills in blending western and eastern culinary influences to create twists on classic dishes.IMG_1694The restaurant’s exterior is designed to resemble a ship with vaulted steel beams and lots of glass which creates fantastic views across the River Thames from almost every angle. IMG_1683The interiors combine a modernist aesthetic with antique Thai artefacts, including eight Buddha statues who keep a watchful eye on proceedings. For summer eating and drinking the 40-cover riverside terrace offers the perfect spot for al fresco dining.IMG_1662But enough of the PR fluff…What about the cocktails? A refreshing Siam Tra-Kai (£7.50) was a blend of lemongrass, raspberry purée and cranberry juice and the Thai Square full moon (£11) was a sweet and tropical blend of Thai rum, Passai, pineapple and passion fruit juices and fresh passion fruit.IMG_1661A couple of snacks were a foretaste of the meal to come. Compressed watermelon was covered with crisp deep-fried shallots and flavoured with nam pla  (fish sauce) and sugar creating a wonderful layering of flavours combining pungency, crunch and freshness.IMG_1663The delicate sweetness of pomelo was counterpointed with the unfamiliar but delicious flavour of caramelised coconut blended with ginger and chilli for a bit of bite.IMG_1666We moved on to drinking a crisp, lemony Chilean Emiliana Riesling that stood up well to the herbs and spices in the food. Next up we sampled a selection of starters.IMG_1668The centrepiece of a wonderful Seafood Platter was a whole lobster salad infused with chilli and lemongrass. The fragrance of the spicing brought out the delicate lobster flavour perfectly. IMG_1669Luxurious grilled scallops were drenched in butter, garlic and chilli; prawns and chicken dim sum were light and fluffy.IMG_1680Grilled wild tiger prawns came with a sweet basil parfait, rocket salad and radish. I could have eaten twenty of these but I’m greedy…IMG_1664A spicy and fresh tasting duck salad was made up of chargrilled slices of duck breast served with Longan fruit.IMG_1673Baked aubergine with quail egg, sweet pepper, minced chicken breast and prawn, spicy lime dressing and truffle oil was a plate of rich, squishy deliciousness.IMG_1681There was a wide selection of main dishes so we all chose one and tasted some others. A tangy yellow curry had the unmistakable sweet sour flavour of tamarind; the meat from the lamb shank tangy falling off the bone with the inevitability 0f me falling off the wagon.IMG_1676Grilled black cod came wrapped in banana leaf and was sweetened with miso and a chilli jam. It was a good size portion, the flesh was firm but simultaneously melted on your tongue. It tasted fab.IMG_1680Noodles with black truffles and crispy fried prawns with cherry tomatoes, red chilli, garlic, sweet basil and soy had sweet and sour flavours and lots of crunch. The truffles were a little underpowered however.IMG_1679Stir-fried morning glory is a staple in South East Asia, it’s one of my favourite vegetables and always a treat.IMG_1688I always think that having three desserts is a good starting point. A delicate lychee mousse was topped by a wonderfully wobbly jelly, the ginger creme brulée was a perfectly constructed Asian take on the French Brasserie favourite and the coconut flan gave a tropical flavour to the Spanish classic.IMG_1682I didn’t get the meal I expected at Thai Square. Chef Oula is creating a new cuisine blending Thai flavours with western ingredients and techniques to create an expertly delivered original fusion that I haven’t experienced in the UK. There are plenty of Thai classics still on offer but this new Executive Menu is really worth investigating.

 

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