COYA Angel Court City
31-33 Throgmorton Street London EC2N 2AT
Tel: +44 (0) 203 9070 000
I reviewed the original COYA at the Hyde Park end of Piccadilly a couple of years ago not long after it opened. I loved its sophisticated take on Peruvian cuisine so I was intrigued to be invited to review the newly launched day-to-night Pisco Lounge and restaurant at COYA Angel Court in Bank.The restaurant is just a stone’s throw from Bank station and our first stop on arrival was the COYA’S Pisco Lounge. As you might expect it features a comprehensive Pisco library, over 40 tequilas and an extensive rum list. Sadly they wouldn’t let me move in.We went for that South American classic, The Pisco Sour (£12) made with Pisco Quebranta, fresh lime juice, sugar syrup and egg white. It’s a frothy citric drink with a hint of bite and one of my favourite summer cocktails. If I’m feeling brave next time I’ll hit the Chilli Margarita and throw some shapes to the sound of the DJ…In the restaurant you are surrounded by vibrant Incan colours and bespoke Latin American furniture which give what is quite a large space a sense of sense of character and intimacy. There is a private dining room and plenty of action coming from the Ceviche counter and the open charcoal grill.Whilst we were clocking the menu our waiter turned up bearing a pestle and mortar, 1 1/2 avocados, some red onion and chilli and a handful of sea salt. Be still my beating heart…I could hardly contain my excitement as he created the perfect Guacamole tableside. It was so fresh with the perfect balance of heat offsetting the vegetal smoothness of the avocado. With corn tortillas and prawn crackers on the side we were off to a great start.Ordering from the Ceviche menu we ordered the Langosta (£19). A succulent half lobster portion perched atop a delicate pool of gazpacho with a bit of kick provided by the tasty aji limo chilli. Our French sommelier suggested matching the dish with a light and creamy Urakasumi Honjozo Sake which was a brilliant and unexpected choice.Soft shell crab Tacos- Cangrejo de concha blanda (£12) – were impeccable with the delicate flavour of the crab enhanced and not overwhelmed by the tang of yuzu, a slick of aioli and the slight addition of chilli heat.From the Para Picar menu (small sharing plates) Fiona chose the Cerdo Bao (£6.50). Slow-cooked deliciously flakey pulled pork with chipotle and a ‘criolla’ (creole) salsa served in a spiced mayo Bao-style bun with fresh coriander. Langostino Tigre (£29) was a huge Josper-grilled (charcoal) Tiger Prawn. Taken out of the shell it was mixed with a chilli salsa creating a wonderfully rich tasting dish accompanied by a crisp, peachy Uruguayan Albariño from Bodegas Garzon.Arroz Nikkei (£36) was a standout dish for me. Chilean sea bass was served with rice, lime, chilli and a corn purée. The fish had a caramel sweetness almost like a black cod and blended with the starchy rice and corn it created a fabulous dish. With it we drank an Argentinian Susana Balbo Signature Rosé, a blend of Malbec and Pinot Noir, which had a wonderful strawberry aroma whilst maintaining a sense of minerality.Sides included Esparragos Peruanos (£7) – grilled Peruvian asparagus served with a tomato dressing, and Choy sum Chifa (£6) – stir-fried Choy sum, soya with sesame seeds both showing a real attention to detail and flavour.Mousse de Coco (£9) was a delicious dessert of a fluffy coconut mousse, Jivara chocolate and pineapple sorbet. A wonderful Urakasumi Umeshu plum sake had an intense almond nose but was not as sweet as a plum wine. Caramelo con Chocolate y Sorbete de Frambuesa (£9) was a dark and mysterious salted caramel ganache given a bit of vava voom by a pisco and raspberry sorbet. We sank a lovely glass of plummy Luccardi Malammado , a fortified port-like Malbec from Argentina to go with it.A glass of Ruinart rosé champagne was the perfect end to a meal that combined traditional Peruvian cooking with Japanese, Chinese and Spanish cuisines. There was a real vibrancy and sense of consistency to the food at COYA Angel Court. It really feels that is the Nikkei/Peruvian food axis where the action is at the moment in gastronomy and if you are looking for something deliciously different then you should try out COYA.