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The Hedonist

Freakscene – Review

December 2, 2017 by Adrian Leave a Comment

Freakscene                                       Clerkenwell

91 Cowcross Street

London, EC1M 6BH

+44 7561 394 497/http://freakscene.london/

The chef behind FreakScene is a chap called Scott Hallsworth who was head chef of Nobu in Park Lane, London for six years. On returning to his native Australia Scott opened Nobu Melbourne and then came back to London and created Kurobuta, a fashionable Japanese Izakaya on Chelsea’s King’s Road.  Kurobuta called itself a ‘Rock’n Roll Izakaya’ and with neon lighting, flight cases strewn artfully around the space, AC/DC on the turntable and Japanese tapas style plates it lived up to its billing. Other branches opened as the group expanded but Hallsworth is no longer on board and no-one is spilling the beans as to what happened between Hallsworth and his backers. Freakscene exterior However he has swiftly made a comeback with FreakScene, a pop-up café near Farringdon station that continues the Kurobuta narrative but in a more low key and more amusingly put together space that avoids some of the rock’n roll clichés of its predecessor.Freakscene posterThe cooking is apparently ‘inspired’ by The Pixies, Nick Cave and The Ramones though how that that translates on  to the plate is beyond me and I’m doing a PhD in popular music…! I guess it’s meant to be about attitude…but I’ve been asked to review and want to see and taste what his next move is.Freakscene cocktailThe menu is short and sweet and is Hallsworth’s latest take on Nikkei cuisine, that South American/Japanese fusion that is he majors in.The manager amused us with stories of his Jamaican grandmother and seduced us (not hard) into trying a delicious Sake cocktail (£9.50) – sake, pink grapefruit, sugar syrup with its light citrus notes not overwhelming the delicate sake flavour.Freakscene tuna tacoChili crab and avocado wonton bombs (£6.50) were first out. Spicy mouthfuls of crab, with a good mix of the more flavourful brown meat, and soft avocado sat in the crunchy wonton wrappers. Crunch, heat and flavour – a combination that set the theme for the evening.We sank a glass of floral Konishi Silver sake to accompany the ‘bombs’ which was an elegant match.Freakscene bookMiso grilled black cod taco came with sushi rice, scorched red chili and tomato salsa (£10). The cod was sweet and melting and it was interesting to have the taco with the rice in a nod to Okinawan cuisine which melded Tex-Mex with Japanese food in the mid-1950s. The celery and pepper notes of Autumn Leaves premium sake sat well with the fish.Freakscene salmon truffleA signature Kurobuta dish of Loch Duart salmon sashimi pizza with truffle ponzu, Jalapeño and wasabi tobiko (£11) was probably the most exciting plate for me. The smoked salmon was good quality with the hint of truffle flavour, saltiness of the tobiko (fish roe) and hot peppers with the crunch of the pizza (taco) base all colliding to provide an amazing mouth sensation. It shouldn’t work but it does!Freakscene aubergineNasi Dengaku is the classic dish of Miso grilled aubergine with caramelised walnuts (£8). I remember it as a favourite off the Kurobuta menu and the aubergine still had that sweet and luscious taste and texture with a hint of walnut crunch that I loved when I first tried it. Freakscene cocktailWe matched it with a Monkey Goes To Heaven cocktail, a smoky mix of ginger, sugar syrup and apple with Monkey Shoulder blended scotch. Seared beef salad with pomegranate, onion-peanut Ponzu and garlic crisps (£11.50) had a perfect char on beef which was beautifully tender with flavour bursting from the garlic, pomegranate and peanut.Freakscene int 1FreakScene advertises itself as selling ‘curious Asian plates’. The food is a smash and grab raid on Asian cuisines with flavours colliding and exploding in a way that shouldn’t work but does in an exceptional and idiosyncratic way. The pop-up is a low budget operation with the cooking taking place on two portable burners; but if you crave Hallsworth’s brand of fusion food you really should check out FreakScene while it is still there.

Enoteca Rabezzana – Review

January 31, 2015 by Adrian Leave a Comment

Enoteca Rabezzana                     Farringdon

Follow @Hedonisttweets

62-63 Long Lane, EC1A 9EJ

07831573234/http://www.rabezzana.co.uk

Enoteca Rabezzana 1Young Genoese chef Guglielmo Arnulfo whose cooking I admired  a couple of years ago at Acciuga (see our review), his Kensington restaurant showcasing the food of his native Liguria, has gone into partnership for his second venture with Italian winemakers Rabezzana Vini.
Enoteca Rabezzana 2
Together they have opened a new wine bar in the City. Enoteca Rabezzana is a much more informal operation than Acciuga with a menu of small dishes and sharing plates as well as an A la carte. With the Rabezzana connection it is also a more wine-driven offer and the list featuring almost 150 Italian bottles has real strength in depth.
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But how would Arnulfo’s food translate to the hustle and bustle of the City? Some unexpected deep-fried courgettes came out of the kitchen-hot and fresh-just like me…
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For my first dish I had to try the Ligurian speciality Trofie al pesto di Rossi  (£11). It was sublime with a creaminess from the pasta and a vegetal taste from the basil that is quite specific to the basil from Genoa.
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Fiona, who was reviewing with me went for sausages, Salamella alla Griglia (£6), which were  rustic, meaty and salty. We were drinking a light red wine, a Verduno Bel Colle 2013 (£6.50 125 ml) that showed a great balance of tannin and fruit.
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With our mains we drank a Falanghina from Abruzzo that was mineral and light and perfect with the Fritto misto di mare (£18). The fish and seafood were perfectly fried with the lightest of coatings and were so full of flavour that I wanted to weep tears of happiness. Obviously I didn’t but Guglielmo’s focus on using the best produce is articulated so eloquently in simple dishes like this and the trofie which are so delicious.
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Paprika fries (£4) were crisp and spicy…
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and a green salad (£3) was so simple and perfect with just a splash of oil and balsamic.
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Dolce Amore (£8) was a delicious boozy take on a Tiramisu and
Enoteca Rabezzana 8
Bonet (£7), the soft Piedmontese dessert of rum, egg, cocoa and Amaretti biscuits, was rich and indulgent. We washed our desserts down with glasses of Malvasina di Castelnovo, a not too sweet sparkling red (£4.50 125ml).
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The quality of cooking and ingredients at Enoteca Rabezzana is way beyond its price point. When Farringdon station reopens it will be impossible to get into. It is a place of real quality and integrity. Try it while you can.

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