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The Hedonist

Reviews-Brasserie Zedel

August 28, 2012 by Adrian 2 Comments

BRASSERIE ZEDEL             Soho

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20 Sherwood St, W1F 7ED

Brasserie Zedel

http://www.brasseriezedel.com/

0207 734 4888

Restaurateurs Chris Corbin and Jeremy King are not natural revolutionaries. Their other outposts, The Wolseley and The Delaunay, are grand, conservative and exclusive. However with Brasserie Zedel they have come up with an offer that combines retro glamour with a much more democratic vision. Situated on the site of the old Regent Palace Hotel and in the space occupied by the long departed Atlantic, Brasserie Zedel is a loving distillation of all that is fine about the Parisian Grandes Brasseries and Bouillons, think La Coupole meets Chartier, combined with an additional cafe, jazz bar and cocktail bar.

Brasserie Zedel

With three quarters of a million pounds spent on gilding and enough marble columns to make Trajan jealous, the space has been transformed into a glistening Gallic temple, a far cry from the darker and more decadent yuppie hangout the Atlantic which always felt as if it was a set from a Tim Burton era Batman movie. What is astonishing is how authentic Brasserie Zedel feels-with The Wolseley and The Delaunay you always know you are in London but here you’re not quite so sure.

From the pink linen napkins to the cutlery and cruet set, great care has been taken in the detail.

Soupe de poisson

I started with the fish soup which was excellent having a depth of flavour and richness which belied the £4.25 price tag. I know of at least one restaurant in the near vicinity charging over £9 for a similar dish.

Sea Bream

The sea bream was perfectly cooked, the slightly salty and charred skin offsetting the sweetness of the flesh, and was accompanied by some delicious fried fennel and a sauce vierge.

Celeri Remoulade

The Celeri Remoulade (£2.95) was a robust portion with enough bite from the mustard dressing to match the crunch of the celeriac.

Brasserie Zedel bar

I had a glass of serviceable white Bordeaux with my meal (Entre Deux Mers 2011 @ £4.60) and was able to walk away from the restaurant feeling that I had got value for money. What is remarkable about Brasserie Zedel is that it all works very efficiently as a brasserie should and at such a competitive price point  that a real  challenge has been created for other operators.

Brasserie Zedel on Urbanspoon

Square Meal

4 / 5 stars     

Filed Under: Restaurants & Bars

Trackbacks

  1. Brasserie Zedel - A Little Bit of Paris in London | London Unattached - London Restaurants, London Lifestyle, London Events says:
    September 9, 2012 at 3:01 pm

    […] as it happens, Brasserie Zedel was recommended to me by another blogger and good friend of mine, The Hedonist – so when I arranged to meet Karen Burns Booth of Lavender and Lovage for lunch it seemed […]

    Reply
  2. Little Social - Review - The Hedonist says:
    April 26, 2013 at 12:04 pm

    […] Reviews-Brasserie Zedel […]

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