BRASSERIE ZEDEL Soho
20 Sherwood St, W1F 7ED
0207 734 4888
Restaurateurs Chris Corbin and Jeremy King are not natural revolutionaries. Their other outposts, The Wolseley and The Delaunay, are grand, conservative and exclusive. However with Brasserie Zedel they have come up with an offer that combines retro glamour with a much more democratic vision. Situated on the site of the old Regent Palace Hotel and in the space occupied by the long departed Atlantic, Brasserie Zedel is a loving distillation of all that is fine about the Parisian Grandes Brasseries and Bouillons, think La Coupole meets Chartier, combined with an additional cafe, jazz bar and cocktail bar.
With three quarters of a million pounds spent on gilding and enough marble columns to make Trajan jealous, the space has been transformed into a glistening Gallic temple, a far cry from the darker and more decadent yuppie hangout the Atlantic which always felt as if it was a set from a Tim Burton era Batman movie. What is astonishing is how authentic Brasserie Zedel feels-with The Wolseley and The Delaunay you always know you are in London but here you’re not quite so sure.
From the pink linen napkins to the cutlery and cruet set, great care has been taken in the detail.
I started with the fish soup which was excellent having a depth of flavour and richness which belied the £4.25 price tag. I know of at least one restaurant in the near vicinity charging over £9 for a similar dish.