• About The Hedonist
  • Bar Talk-Where we’re drinking
    • The Polo Bar @ The Westbury
    • Pink Chihuahua
    • 69 Colebrooke Row – Review
    • The Bar at the George V Paris – Review
    • Duke’s Bar – Review
    • Bassoon Bar – Review
    • Banca – Review
    • THE EGERTON HOUSE BAR -Review
    • The Lucky Pig – Review
    • Beagle – Review
    • 214 Bermondsey – Review
  • London Restaurant Reviews
    • Caractère – Review Notting Hill
    • Patri – Review
    • Villa di Geggiano – Review
    • African Volcano @  Great Guns Social  
    • Beso – Review
    • Padella – Review
    • 28°-50° London Wine Workshop and Kitchen – Review
    • The Goring – Review
    • Freakscene – Review
    • CUB – Review
    • Tsukiji Sushi – Review
    • COYA Angel Court – Review
    • Nutbourne – Review
    • Galvin Bistrot de Luxe – Review
    • Palatino – Review
    • Lao Café – Review
    • Galvin at The Athenaeum – Review
    • 7 Park Place – Review
    • QP London – Review
    • Cinnamon Bazaar – Review
    • Chinese New Year @ Hakkasan
    • Dinner by Heston Blumenthal – Review
    • The Ritz @ Xmas – Review
    • Coriander – Review
    • El Parador – Review
    • Inamo – Review
    • Ostuni – Review
    • Chai Wu – Review
    • Shotgun BBQ – Review
    • Ormer Mayfair – Review
    • Review-The Angler
    • The Harcourt – Review
    • Pizzicotto – Review
    • The Painted Heron – Review
    • All Star Lanes – Review
    • Kurobuta Harvey Nichols – Review
    • Bangalore Express – Review
    • Zero Degrees – Review
    • Chakra – Review
    • Cottons Caribbean Restaurant and Salon de Rhum – Review
    • Lotus – Review
    • Charlotte’s W5 – Review
    • Massimo – Review
    • Brasserie Les 110 de Taillevent – Review
    • The Dalloway Terrace @ The Bloomsbury hotel – Review
    • Plum + Spilt Milk – Review
    • Bella Cosa – Review
    • Roka Aldwych – Review (with Bookatable)
    • Brasserie Gustave – Review
    • Muga – Review
    • Barrafina – Review
    • Charlotte’s Place – Review
    • The New St Grill – Review
    • The Lockhart – Review
    • Kêu – Review
    • The Richmond – Review
    • Allan Pickett @ Sanderson – Review
    • Scents of Summer Afternoon Tea @ The InterContinental London
    • Tartufi & Friends @ Harrods – Review
    • The Five Fields – Review
    • West Thirty Six – Review
    • Evoluzione @ Hotel Xenia Kensington – Review
    • Rex & Mariano – Review
    • Kitchen Table @ Bubbledogs – Review
    • John Doe – Review
    • Ceru – Review
    • Kouzu – Review
    • Enoteca Rabezzana – Review
    • Old Tom & English – Review
    • The Wallace – Review
    • Zaika – Review
    • Xmas at Boulestin – Review
    • Crocker’s Folly – Review
    • The Cavendish – Review
    • Laurent-Perrier at The New Angel – Review
    • Assado – Review
    • The Life Goddess – Review
    • Bubba Gump Shrimp Co – Review
    • Ember Yard – Review
    • The Palomar – Review
    • Blanchette – Review
    • Cannizaro House – Review
    • 1901 Restaurant at Andaz – Review
    • Notting Hill Kitchen – Review
    • The Guildford Arms – Review
    • Curry for Change @ Cafe Spice Namaste
    • Chotto Matte – Review
    • Lyle’s – Review
    • The Clove Club – Review
    • Quo Vadis – Review
    • Polpetto – Review
    • Osteria dell Angelo – Review
    • Amsterdam-Johannes Restaurant – Review
    • The Worlds End Market – Chelsea
    • Brigade Bar & Bistro- Review
    • La Polenteria – Review
    • Mele e Pere – Review
    • La Mancha – Review
    • The Well – Review
    • Harrods The Salad Kitchen – Review
    • Layla – Review
    • See Sushi – Review
    • Pescatori Mayfair – Review
    • Flesh & Buns – Review
    • Grain Store – Review
    • Acciuga – Review
    • Pizza Pilgrims – Review
    • Les Trois Garcons – Review
    • Little Social – Review
    • Review-Ametsa with Arzak Instruction
    • Review-Balthazar
    • Reviews-Brasserie Zedel
    • Review-Copita
    • Review-Hawksmoor Air St.
    • The Glasshouse – Review
    • Review-Coya
    • 214 Bermondsey – Review
  • Travel
    • Tuscany
      • Tuscany-A Florentine Feast with Anna Bini
      • Tuscany-Olive Oil Pressing in Pistoia-Olio Nuovo
      • Tuscany-Pecorino and Ricotta from the Pistoia Hills
  • Music
    • When A Gig Goes Wrong – Pop Music’s Hall of Shame

The Hedonist

Kitchen Table @ Bubbledogs – Review

March 21, 2015 by Adrian Leave a Comment

Kitchen Table @ Bubbledogs                              Fitzrovia

Follow @Hedonisttweets

70 Charlotte Street, W1T 4QG
020 7637 7770/http://www.kitchentablelondon.co.uk

BubbledogsImagine you’re an up and coming young chef (James Knappett), you’ve worked at the top end of international fine dining at Noma, Per Se and Marcus Wareing, and your wife is the sommelier at Simon Rogan’s Roganic (Sandia Chang). Maybe over a coffee the two of you are idly dreaming about opening your own place. You want to create something different-something with strong branding and good margins that will draw in the punters…and so Bubbledogs was born, a surreal and inspired fusion of gourmet hot dogs with grower champagne. But Knappett had a cunning plan and sitting at the back of the fizz and dog emporium is his intimate fine dining joint Kitchen Table.

KITCHEN TABLE 8
The name tells the story as the 19 diners are seated around the chef’s station on high stools so you really feel part of the action.
KITCHEN TABLE 5
You come for the tasting menu of 12 – 14 courses at £88, with a wine flight at an additional £68. Her ladyship and I didn’t go for the wine pairings and chose a mineral and reasonably priced Txacoli (Basque cava) instead.
KITCHEN TABLE 3
The food service opened with smoked brill roe, dried yuzu zest and baby radish. The roe had a subtly fishy taste, like a properly made tarama, and a creamy texture. The citrus of the yuzu spiked things up and the sweet crunch of the radish gave contrast.
KITCHEN TABLE 4
A potato water cracker was studded with sour cream, salmon from Maldon and brown sugar from Beijing. It was a crunchy breath of sweet fishiness.
KITCHEN TABLE 6
Cornish raw shrimp came with pearl barley crisp bread, pear and tarragon, brown butter and lemon zest. This dish was the one misfire of the evening for me simply because the shrimp were lacking in flavour-apparently they are a particularly rare variety but their scarcity value didn’t translate into flavour. However a purple heritage carrot cooked in pickling liquor with sorrel and creme fraiche was another iteration of the sweet crunchy trope.
KITCHEN TABLE 7
as was the chickpea wafer slathered with marscapone and blobs of a chilli tomato jam.
KITCHEN TABLE 9
A scallop was perfectly roasted and perked up with dried chilli and a gentle ginger mayonnaise.
KITCHEN TABLE 11
Perfectly cooked brill came lightly steamed with turnips from Tokyo and a home-made miso and lemon paste.
KITCHEN TABLE 13
For a supplement a dish of Perigord truffle with pasta in a champagne sauce was wonderful. This dish felt like a very contemporary articulation of fine dining. Simple and luxurious.
KITCHEN TABLE 15
Salmon collar was charcoal cooked coming with a parsley mayo and a candied olive. The fish was deliciously fatty in flavour and was the salmon equivalent of Toro tuna.
KITCHEN TABLE 16
A creamy Waterloo cheese came with sweet-sour rhubarb and the crunch of toasted barley.
KITCHEN TABLE 17
A mango slush puppy was a fantastically refreshing mango ice made with coconut water.
KITCHEN TABLE 19
Milk, cookie dough and caramel ice-cream were fantastic.
KITCHEN TABLE 21
Roasted liqourice ice cream was coated in chilled dark chocolate over a hibiscus biscuit base. The gentle liqourice flavour was offset by the crisp bitter chocolate.
KITCHEN TABLE 22
Salted Madagascar vanilla fudge slipped onto the tongue with a lover’s caress.
Gastronomically Kitchen Table is operating in the same kind of area as Lyle’s and The Clove Club, but the experience is so personal with James Knappett explaining and presenting each dish that has been prepared in front of you, that the whole fine dining experience is deconstructed. I think the whole operation is really intelligently put together and Knappett’s Michelin star is deserved. I’m sure he is a chef who will continue to develop new ideas and if they don’t franchise Bubbledogs soon they are missing a trick.

Square Meal

Kitchen Table at Bubbledogs on Urbanspoon

4.5 / 5 stars     

Filed Under: Restaurants & Bars Tagged With: Bubbledogs, Fitzrovia, James Knappett, Kitchen Table

Leave a Reply Cancel reply

Your email address will not be published. Required fields are marked *

Tags

Acciuga Belgravia Brighton Bruno Loubet Camden Chelsea Chiswick Cocktails Covent Garden Curry D@D Fitzrovia Gallery Mess gin Hackney Harrison's Harrods Hoxton Indian Islington Italian Japanese Kensington King's Rd London London-Unattached Marylebone Mayfair Namaaste Kitchen Negroni Notting Hill pan-asian Peru Peruvian Pizza Restaurant sake Sam's Shoreditch Sloane Square Soho tapas The Hedonist The Saatchi Gallery Tony Conigliaro

Copyright © 2023 · Magazine Pro Theme on Genesis Framework · WordPress · Log in